Camaro Wiki - User contributions [en]

LS1 Modification Guide

2008-05-30T17:46:52Z

75.173.70.239:

[[Category:Modification Guide]]

As for any modifications, you should always start with the basics. You wouldn't want to try to run 5 miles with out training and/or breathing through a straw. -Correct?

First things first: Tackle the Exhaust system, cat back first, then Headers of your choice and Y pipe or true duals of your shoice. On LS1's, an airbox lid, filter and Ported and Polished throttle body are very easy, basic mods and should be done first. After you assess the breathing area, you can take on some minor suspension upgrades. Lower control arms, Subframe connectors and tansmission mounts are some of the first modifications that are the best bang for the buck.

== FREE MODS: ==

Here's a couple sites containing full color photos about the freemods.

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0311htp_ls1_fbody_10_free_modifications/index.html
http://www.installuniversity.com/install_university/index.htm
http://www.ls1howto.com

There are basically 5 free mods, all worth about 10 RWHP.

'''MAF Screen'''

You CAN remove the MAF screen by gently poking it out from the intake side to the filter side. If you damage any of the three sensing units in the center of the MAF, you will have serious drivability problems and in turn will need a replacement.

This subject has been one of debate. There is no actual proven power to be had here. The screen is used to evenly distribute the incoming air across the surface of the sensing element in the MAF. When you remove the screen, tuning it now can be troublesome. (LS1 Edited) Plus, you can run the risk of sucking in forgotten tools/ parts (hose clamps) that have been mistakenly left on your air filter during mod install...

The stock MAF sensor is also good up to a considerable HP level, so a 'high performance' replacement is not exactly necessary. Unless you are running some impressive flow #'s.

'''TB Bypass Mod'''

First step, remove the airbox lid, MAF and the bellows to expose the throttle body and gain extra work room.

There is a small coolant line running from the top passenger's side of the radiator to the throttle body, then from the driver's side of the throttle body to the LS1 Head Steam vent tubes the bridge between the two heads under the throttle body. Remove both of the lines from the throttle body and connect them with a fitting that SHOULD be 5/16 on one end and 1/4" on the other end. Replace the hose clams from the TB to the bypass and you're done.

'''EGR Mod''' -Non LS6 intake

If you manually open the throttle, look inside. Where the EGR tube enters the manifold, in back of the throttle body, there will be a portion of the EGR tube protruding into the path of the incoming air. That needs to be chopped. Begin by removing the 10mm bolt that holds the EGR tube into the manifold. (from the top) Be sure to grab the O-ring seal, don't let it get loose in the intake. Pull the EGR tube up and chop the tube below the hat mount ridge. You can use a die-grinder or a dremel, what ever gets the job done. DON'T CUT THE MOUNT! There will be no way to remount the EGR tube if you do, and you can have a serious vacuum leak!

Once cut, remove the burs and shavings w/ a file or what ever works. Re-install and snug the mounting bolt back. It doesn't have to be insanely tight!

'''Drill Mod''' -For Master cyl clutch line.

The slave is buried under the power brake booster. You'll have to snake your hand and arm underneath to get it out (have patience, it CAN be done). Once you get it out, take a roll pin punch and remove the roll pin that retains the braided line to the master. The disconnect the fluid reservoir from the unit. Drain, but do not clean with water! Brake fluid absorbs moisture. You can use brakeclean if you want, but it could stain the plastic.

-DRILL MOD-
-THE ENTIRE MASTER, RESERVOIR AND LINES MUST BE REMOVED TO PERFORM THIS MOD-

Wrap the master end of the line in an old hose piece to gently hold the master end of the braided line in the vice (looks like a brake bleeder valve. sorry no pic) If you insert the drill bit into the line with your hand you can feel an obstruction in the line. That's what will be drilled out. Use a 7/64" drill bit. The website, www.InstallUniversity.com, says to use an 1/8" drill bit, but I felt it was too big. Gently drill out the obstruction, lifting the drill frequently to remove shavings. Keep the line and drill bit as straight as possible as to not drill through the side of the braided line!

Voi La! You're done. I bled the line about a dozen times to be sure I removed all the metal shavings. Now bolt everything back up.

LS1 Modification Guide

2008-05-30T17:30:35Z

75.173.70.239:

[[Category:Modification Guide]]

As for any modifications, you should always start with the basics. You wouldn't want to try to run 5 miles with out training and/or breathing through a straw. -Correct?

First things first: Tackle the Exhaust system, cat back first, then Headers of your choice and Y pipe or true duals of your shoice. On LS1's, an airbox lid, filter and Ported and Polished throttle body are very easy, basic mods and should be done first. After you assess the breathing area, you can take on some minor suspension upgrades. Lower control arms, Subframe connectors and tansmission mounts are some of the first modifications that are the best bang for the buck.

== FREE MODS: ==

Here's a couple sites containing full color photos about the freemods.

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0311htp_ls1_fbody_10_free_modifications/index.html
http://www.installuniversity.com/install_university/index.htm
http://www.ls1howto.com

There are basically 5 free mods, all worth about 10 RWHP.

'''MAF Screen'''

You CAN remove the MAF screen by gently poking it out from the intake side to the filter side. If you damage any of the three sensing units in the center of the MAF, you will have serious drivability problems and in turn will need a replacement.

This subject has been one of debate. There is no actual proven power to be had here. The screen is used to evenly distribute the incoming air across the surface of the sensing element in the MAF. When you remove the screen, tuning it now can be troublesome. (LS1 Edited) Plus, you can run the risk of sucking in forgotten tools/ parts (hose clamps) that have been mistakenly left on your air filter during mod install...

The stock MAF sensor is also good up to a considerable HP level, so a 'high performance' replacement is not exactly necessary. Unless you are running some impressive flow #'s.

'''TB Bypass Mod'''

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0311htp_projls1/index.html
http://www.installuniversity.com/install_university/index.htm
http://www.ls1howto.com

'''EGR Mod''' -Non LS6 intake

If you manually open the throttle, look inside. Where the EGR tube enters the manifold, in back of the throttle body, there will be a portion of the EGR tube protruding into the path of the incoming air. That needs to be chopped. Begin by removing the 10mm bolt that holds the EGR tube into the manifold. (from the top) Be sure to grab the O-ring seal, don't let it get loose in the intake. Pull the EGR tube up and chop the tube below the hat mount ridge. You can use a die-grinder or a dremel, what ever gets the job done. DON'T CUT THE MOUNT! There will be no way to remount the EGR tube if you do, and you can have a serious vacuum leak!

Once cut, remove the burs and shavings w/ a file or what ever works. Re-install and snug the mounting bolt back. It doesn't have to be insanely tight!

'''Drill Mod''' -For Master cyl clutch line.

The slave is buried under the power brake booster. You'll have to snake your hand and arm underneath to get it out (have patience, it CAN be done). Once you get it out, take a roll pin punch and remove the roll pin that retains the braided line to the master. The disconnect the fluid reservoir from the unit. Drain, but do not clean with water! Brake fluid absorbs moisture. You can use brakeclean if you want, but it could stain the plastic.

-DRILL MOD-
-THE ENTIRE MASTER, RESERVOIR AND LINES MUST BE REMOVED TO PERFORM THIS MOD-

Wrap the master end of the line in an old hose piece to gently hold the master end of the braided line in the vice (looks like a brake bleeder valve. sorry no pic) If you insert the drill bit into the line with your hand you can feel an obstruction in the line. That's what will be drilled out. Use a 7/64" drill bit. The website, www.InstallUniversity.com, says to use an 1/8" drill bit, but I felt it was too big. Gently drill out the obstruction, lifting the drill frequently to remove shavings. Keep the line and drill bit as straight as possible as to not drill through the side of the braided line!

Voi La! You're done. I bled the line about a dozen times to be sure I removed all the metal shavings. Now bolt everything back up.

LS1 Modification Guide

2008-05-30T17:27:11Z

75.173.70.239:

[[Category:Modification Guide]]

As for any modifications, you should always start with the basics. You wouldn't want to try to run 5 miles with out training and/or breathing through a straw. -Correct?

First things first: Tackle the Exhaust system, cat back first, then Headers of your choice and Y pipe or true duals of your shoice. On LS1's, an airbox lid, filter and Ported and Polished throttle body are very easy, basic mods and should be done first. After you assess the breathing area, you can take on some minor suspension upgrades. Lower control arms, Subframe connectors and tansmission mounts are some of the first modifications that are the best bang for the buck.

== FREE MODS: ==

Here's a couple sites containing full color photos about the freemods.

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0311htp_ls1_fbody_10_free_modifications/index.html
http://www.installuniversity.com/install_university/index.htm
http://www.ls1howto.com

There are basically 5 free mods, all worth about 10 RWHP.

'''MAF Screen'''

You CAN remove the MAF screen by gently poking it out from the intake side to the filter side. If you damage any of the three sensing units in the center of the MAF, you will have serious drivability problems and in turn will need a replacement.

This subject has been one of debate. There is no actual proven power to be had here. The screen is used to evenly distribute the incoming air across the surface of the sensing element in the MAF. When you remove the screen, tuning it now can be troublesome. (LS1 Edited) Plus, you can run the risk of sucking in forgotten tools/ parts (hose clamps) that have been mistakenly left on your air filter during mod install...

The stock MAF sensor is also good up to a considerable HP level, so a 'high performance' replacement is not exactly necessary. Unless you are running some impressive flow #'s.

'''TB Bypass Mod'''

[url]http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0311htp_projls1/index.html[/url]
[url]http://www.installuniversity.com/install_university/index.htm[/url]
[url]http://www.ls1howto.com[/url]

'''EGR Mod''' -Non LS6 intake

If you manually open the throttle, look inside. Where the EGR tube enters the manifold, in back of the throttle body, there will be a portion of the EGR tube protruding into the path of the incoming air. That needs to be chopped. Begin by removing the 10mm bolt that holds the EGR tube into the manifold. (from the top) Be sure to grab the O-ring seal, don't let it get loose in the intake. Pull the EGR tube up and chop the tube below the hat mount ridge. You can use a die-grinder or a dremel, what ever gets the job done. DON'T CUT THE MOUNT! There will be no way to remount the EGR tube if you do, and you can have a serious vacuum leak!

Once cut, remove the burs and shavings w/ a file or what ever works. Re-install and snug the mounting bolt back. It doesn't have to be insanely tight!

'''Drill Mod''' -For Master cyl clutch line.

The slave is buried under the power brake booster. You'll have to snake your hand and arm underneath to get it out (have patience, it CAN be done). Once you get it out, take a roll pin punch and remove the roll pin that retains the braided line to the master. The disconnect the fluid reservoir from the unit. Drain, but do not clean with water! Brake fluid absorbs moisture. You can use brakeclean if you want, but it could stain the plastic.

-DRILL MOD-
-THE ENTIRE MASTER, RESERVOIR AND LINES MUST BE REMOVED TO PERFORM THIS MOD-

Wrap the master end of the line in an old hose piece to gently hold the master end of the braided line in the vice (looks like a brake bleeder valve. sorry no pic) If you insert the drill bit into the line with your hand you can feel an obstruction in the line. That's what will be drilled out. Use a 7/64" drill bit. The website, [url]www.InstallUniversity.com[/url], says to use an 1/8" drill bit, but I felt it was too big. Gently drill out the obstruction, lifting the drill frequently to remove shavings. Keep the line and drill bit as straight as possible as to not drill through the side of the braided line!

Voi La! You're done. I bled the line about a dozen times to be sure I removed all the metal shavings. Now bolt everything back up.

LS1 Modification Guide

2008-05-30T17:26:13Z

75.173.70.239:

[[Category:Modification Guide]]

As for any modifications, you should always start with the basics. You wouldn't want to try to run 5 miles with out training and/or breathing through a straw. -Correct?

First things first: Tackle the Exhaust system, cat back first, then Headers of your choice and Y pipe or true duals of your shoice. On LS1's, an airbox lid, filter and Ported and Polished throttle body are very easy, basic mods and should be done first. After you assess the breathing area, you can take on some minor suspension upgrades. Lower control arms, Subframe connectors and tansmission mounts are some of the first modifications that are the best bang for the buck.

== FREE MODS: ==

Here's a couple sites containing full color photos about the freemods.

[url]http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0311htp_ls1_fbody_10_free_modifications/index.html[/url]
You cannot link to a direct site on InstallUniversity, it's framed.
[url]http://www.installuniversity.com/install_university/index.htm[/url]
[url]http://www.ls1howto.com[/url]

There are basically 5 free mods, all worth about 10 RWHP.

'''MAF Screen'''

You CAN remove the MAF screen by gently poking it out from the intake side to the filter side. If you damage any of the three sensing units in the center of the MAF, you will have serious drivability problems and in turn will need a replacement.

This subject has been one of debate. There is no actual proven power to be had here. The screen is used to evenly distribute the incoming air across the surface of the sensing element in the MAF. When you remove the screen, tuning it now can be troublesome. (LS1 Edited) Plus, you can run the risk of sucking in forgotten tools/ parts (hose clamps) that have been mistakenly left on your air filter during mod install...

The stock MAF sensor is also good up to a considerable HP level, so a 'high performance' replacement is not exactly necessary. Unless you are running some impressive flow #'s.

'''TB Bypass Mod'''

[url]http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0311htp_projls1/index.html[/url]
[url]http://www.installuniversity.com/install_university/index.htm[/url]
[url]http://www.ls1howto.com[/url]

'''EGR Mod''' -Non LS6 intake

If you manually open the throttle, look inside. Where the EGR tube enters the manifold, in back of the throttle body, there will be a portion of the EGR tube protruding into the path of the incoming air. That needs to be chopped. Begin by removing the 10mm bolt that holds the EGR tube into the manifold. (from the top) Be sure to grab the O-ring seal, don't let it get loose in the intake. Pull the EGR tube up and chop the tube below the hat mount ridge. You can use a die-grinder or a dremel, what ever gets the job done. DON'T CUT THE MOUNT! There will be no way to remount the EGR tube if you do, and you can have a serious vacuum leak!

Once cut, remove the burs and shavings w/ a file or what ever works. Re-install and snug the mounting bolt back. It doesn't have to be insanely tight!

'''Drill Mod''' -For Master cyl clutch line.

The slave is buried under the power brake booster. You'll have to snake your hand and arm underneath to get it out (have patience, it CAN be done). Once you get it out, take a roll pin punch and remove the roll pin that retains the braided line to the master. The disconnect the fluid reservoir from the unit. Drain, but do not clean with water! Brake fluid absorbs moisture. You can use brakeclean if you want, but it could stain the plastic.

-DRILL MOD-
-THE ENTIRE MASTER, RESERVOIR AND LINES MUST BE REMOVED TO PERFORM THIS MOD-

Wrap the master end of the line in an old hose piece to gently hold the master end of the braided line in the vice (looks like a brake bleeder valve. sorry no pic) If you insert the drill bit into the line with your hand you can feel an obstruction in the line. That's what will be drilled out. Use a 7/64" drill bit. The website, [url]www.InstallUniversity.com[/url], says to use an 1/8" drill bit, but I felt it was too big. Gently drill out the obstruction, lifting the drill frequently to remove shavings. Keep the line and drill bit as straight as possible as to not drill through the side of the braided line!

Voi La! You're done. I bled the line about a dozen times to be sure I removed all the metal shavings. Now bolt everything back up.

LS1 Modification Guide

2008-05-30T17:24:51Z

75.173.70.239:

[[Category:Modification Guide]]

As for any modifications, you should always start with the basics. You wouldn't want to try to run 5 miles with out training and/or breathing through a straw. -Correct?

First things first: Tackle the Exhaust system, cat back first, then Headers of your choice and Y pipe or true duals of your shoice. On LS1's, an airbox lid, filter and Ported and Polished throttle body are very easy, basic mods and should be done first. After you assess the breathing area, you can take on some minor suspension upgrades. Lower control arms, Subframe connectors and tansmission mounts are some of the first modifications that are the best bang for the buck.

== FREE MODS: ==

Here's a couple sites containing full color photos about the freemods.

[url]http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0311htp_ls1_fbody_10_free_modifications/index.html[/url]
You cannot link to a direct site on InstallUniversity, it's framed.
[url]http://www.installuniversity.com/install_university/index.htm[/url]
[url]http://www.ls1howto.com[/url]

There are basically 5 free mods, all worth about 10 RWHP.

[SIZE="4"][B]MAF Screen[/B][/SIZE]

You CAN remove the MAF screen by gently poking it out from the intake side to the filter side. If you damage any of the three sensing units in the center of the MAF, you will have serious drivability problems and in turn will need a replacement.

This subject has been one of debate. There is no actual proven power to be had here. The screen is used to evenly distribute the incoming air across the surface of the sensing element in the MAF. When you remove the screen, tuning it now can be troublesome. (LS1 Edited) Plus, you can run the risk of sucking in forgotten tools/ parts (hose clamps) that have been mistakenly left on your air filter during mod install...

The stock MAF sensor is also good up to a considerable HP level, so a 'high performance' replacement is not exactly necessary. Unless you are running some impressive flow #'s.

[SIZE="4"][B]TB Bypass Mod[/B][/SIZE]

[url]http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0311htp_projls1/index.html[/url]
[url]http://www.installuniversity.com/install_university/index.htm[/url]
[url]http://www.ls1howto.com[/url]

[SIZE="4"][B]EGR Mod[/B][/SIZE] -Non LS6 intake

If you manually open the throttle, look inside. Where the EGR tube enters the manifold, in back of the throttle body, there will be a portion of the EGR tube protruding into the path of the incoming air. That needs to be chopped. Begin by removing the 10mm bolt that holds the EGR tube into the manifold. (from the top) Be sure to grab the O-ring seal, don't let it get loose in the intake. Pull the EGR tube up and chop the tube below the hat mount ridge. You can use a die-grinder or a dremel, what ever gets the job done. DON'T CUT THE MOUNT! There will be no way to remount the EGR tube if you do, and you can have a serious vacuum leak!

Once cut, remove the burs and shavings w/ a file or what ever works. Re-install and snug the mounting bolt back. It doesn't have to be insanely tight!

[SIZE="4"][B]Drill Mod[/B][/SIZE] -For Master cyl clutch line.

The slave is buried under the power brake booster. You'll have to snake your hand and arm underneath to get it out (have patience, it CAN be done). Once you get it out, take a roll pin punch and remove the roll pin that retains the braided line to the master. The disconnect the fluid reservoir from the unit. Drain, but do not clean with water! Brake fluid absorbs moisture. You can use brakeclean if you want, but it could stain the plastic.

-DRILL MOD-
-THE ENTIRE MASTER, RESERVOIR AND LINES MUST BE REMOVED TO PERFORM THIS MOD-

Wrap the master end of the line in an old hose piece to gently hold the master end of the braided line in the vice (looks like a brake bleeder valve. sorry no pic) If you insert the drill bit into the line with your hand you can feel an obstruction in the line. That's what will be drilled out. Use a 7/64" drill bit. The website, [url]www.InstallUniversity.com[/url], says to use an 1/8" drill bit, but I felt it was too big. Gently drill out the obstruction, lifting the drill frequently to remove shavings. Keep the line and drill bit as straight as possible as to not drill through the side of the braided line!

Voi La! You're done. I bled the line about a dozen times to be sure I removed all the metal shavings. Now bolt everything back up.

Fourth-generation Chevrolet Camaro

2008-05-30T17:01:56Z

75.173.70.239:

Camaros produced from 1993-2002
----

Common Differences

1993: Introduction of the LT1, rated at 275 horsepower. M6 cars offered with either 3.23 or 2.73 rear end ratios due to the 2 different 6 speeds offered in that year. The unique transmission in 93 had a higher (numerically) 1st and 6th gear and GM offered 2.73's to conteract this. A4 cars came with the non computer controlled 700R4. They also had a lower torque capacity because of this. LT1's were ECM controlled rather then PCM, ran off of Speed Density, and were batch fire injected rather the sequential. They have a unique intake manifold casting due to their fuel rails.

1994: LT1's are offered much as they were to be with the single 6 speed transmission and 3.42 gears. LT1 receives the 4L60E, which is an electronically controlled version of the 700R4. They are now use sequential fuel injected, MAF sensors and are PCM controlled.

1995: Introduction of the vented opti. V6 cars now offered with 3.8L and introduction of Dual Catalytic Converters (California Cars)
-OBDII System introduced.
-LS1 R/D Begins.

1996: 3.4L V6 no longer produced. First year for the OBDII computer and all F-Bodies had Dual Catalytic Converters and had increased LT1 Horsepower rating to 285 rather then 275. 1st year for "SS" option package on a 4th gen, was the only year for a "Z-28 SS" All other SS Camaro's were simply SS's

1997: Update Interior, Horsepower increased to 285 due to dual catalytic converters. 100 LT4 SS's were produced and sold in the US, 6 in Canada. New taillight design
- LS1 introduced into Corvette production, soon to find it's way under the hood of the F-Body.

1998: Completely new front end. Introduction of LS1, still retains Metal Gas Tank, PCM is unique to 98 cars only. Also introduction of completely new brake set-up as well as new aluminum drive shaft. 6 speeds gain new Slave and Master system and removable bell housing on automatics

1999: Plastic gas tank is introduced. Introduction of Hugger Orange SS

2000:

2001: LS6 Intakes are now stock on all F-Bodies along with the removal of EGR, GM installed smaller camshafts as well. New updated Slave and Master cylinder are introduced to help fix the problems with the older systems.
2002: Last year for the Camaro

2002: The Camaro reaches the final year of production. Heritage/Anniversary packages are available as well as the 35th Anniversary badging. Badging could be the Camaro Dash Plate, or even embroidered on the headrests. Wheel choices also differ for special Anniversary Packages.
Certain 2002 LS1's were also found with the LS6 Corvette engine block. Factory 'Freaks' crank out a whopping 400 BHP, 60 more than advertised.